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SOG Knives For Hunting
September 23rd, 2009

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Before you settle on one of the new SOG knives for hunting, there are a few things you should Consider. There are , however , knives in particular designed for little game. That pocket knife you use on rabbits or quail might get the job done on a bear, but it doesn’t go to be straightforward or agreeable. Neither is field dressing a cottontail with an enormous, fixed-blade sheath knife.

Any experienced hunter knows that, right? But is there a selected type knife that is better at gutting than some other? Can’t you tummy a deer or an elk with the same knife you’ll use to peel it? Sure you can, but … Consider that a dedicated tum hook, or a knife with an in-built stomach hook, will do a neater, cleaner job of field dressing than a skinning knife will, just as a skinning knife will skin that elk easier and better than a deboning knife ever could. Try it with a dedicated stomach hook sometime. And what if that elk you just shot is your’Trophy of a Lifetime’? You need a mount, don’t you? At least a full head or a shoulder mount, huh? That suggests somebody will have to cape that elk correctly so your taxidermist will have something to work with besides a ragged hide full of nicks and holes.
The point here is that there are different type knives for different tasks.
Now let’s compare the types discussed so far

Dedicated gut hooks

This knife ( for our purposes we’ll call it a knife ) actually has only one intended purpose … It’s not much good for anything more, although I suppose it could pass as a pencil sharpener in a pinch.

Knives with built in stomach hooks

This is a regular knife, just about any style blade, but with the gut hook built right in. ( we will rap about the different blade styles further down the page.
Skinning knives

The rounded cutting edge helps cutting the membrane that holds the skin to the animal. You use it in a sort or’swiping’ or’rocking’ motion, versus’slicing’. The blunter tip helps you avoid punctures in the hide and beef as you progress.
At risk of offending, or angering the purists, this is, in all truth, the one you can most likely do without. There are lots of general, typically hunting knives that can adequately debone a large animal.

Caping knives
Caping involves fine, detailed skinning work around your prize’s antlers, eyes, ears, nose and mouth. A good caping knife usually has a slim, thin … But not so flexible … Some carry the rounded end to the max. While the rounded versions help make sure you don’t accidentally poke a hole where you do not need one, the pointed versions can reach into tighter places to make more fragile cuts. Just remember … Control and delicacy. Any unwelcome hole will need to be patched by your taxidermist ( most likely at added cost to you ) and any’missing’ hide is not easily or inexpensively replaced.

You don’t want to use a sledge hammer to drive finish nails.

as far as hunting knives go, there are 3 basic blade styles drop point, clip point and skinning.

The drop point is a superb blade design for gigantic game. The blade is normally heavier and thicker, making for a solid, strong knife capable of splitting the sternum and even the ribs of all but the largest, hardest gigantic game animal. Clip point blades are rather thinner than drop points and the point is intensified. It is also a bit flatter from cutting edge to back and makes a good all-purpose knife, hunting aside. Most hunters would accept that, if you have only 1 hunting knife, the clip point is not quite as good as the drop point. It’ll work, just not as efficiently in a selection of scenarios.

However [*COMMA] the’typical’,'modern’ skinners don’t have the gentle curve related to the drop point. The skinner’s curve is mostly more drastic, starting more in the middle than at the handle, and the curve has a tendency to have a bigger radius than that of the drop point. It slices better than the other two types.

Fixed or Folding?

One blade at a time, by’sliding’ the handle backwards and forwards. For our purposes, these are still fixed blade knives.
Fixed blades need a sheath to give protection to the cutting edge, and the hunter. All but the smallest/shortest will, by prerequisite, be carried on the belt or in a pack.

Folding knives do just what the name says. Safety first, folks. Folders are far more compact. Any folding knife used for huge game should have a mechanism that locks the blade open. Folders are not as robust or long lasting as fixed blades. Pivots ultimately wear out and, occasionally, a locking mechanism fails. They are also a bit harder to keep clean. Waste, blood, grit, dirt, animal hair, you want it, always finds its way into the blade storage slots, the pivots, and even under the locking bar. Not a big thing and not all that hard to wash, just something to think about.

Each task begs the proper knife. Does this mean you will have to carry 3, four, five knives each time you set out from camp? Naturally not. With one well-designed, well-made knife, perhaps two, you can finish any of those jobs. The options are there, you know what they are. Now you just make up your intelligence based on what you know and how much you can spend.

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